Run Wild! Run Rivers! Rafting Blog

Westwater Canyon: Whitewater Rafting Through the Wild West

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Few places match the rugged landscape of Westwater Canyon of the Colorado River. Combine the geologic record of exposed rock, the history of refuge for outlaws, the abundance of wildlife, the hidden gems of side-canyon exploration, Native American petroglyph panels, the wild rapids deep in the gorge, and its easy to see why National Geographic lists Westwater Canyon as one of the best river trips in the West. Whether you have one day or three, Westwater provides a wilderness experience just an hour and a half away from Moab, Utah.

Less than a mile below the ranger station, red walls of Entrada Sandstone capped with the Morrison Formation rise from the water and form a perch for Bald Eagles as we float by below. Within a few miles the canyon begins to narrow as sedimentary layers of rock rise up. Kayenta Formation on top of Wingate Sandstone on top of the Chinle Formation. Around the bend is where miners in the early 1900’s built a dugout cabin- roof still in tact. Littered around the entrance are remnants of their failed attempt to extract.

Across the river the first signs emerge of 1.7 billion year old proterozoic rocks made up of black metamorphic schist and gneiss. A similar sequence of rock found in the bottom of the Grand Canyon’s inner gorge, but in Westwater Canyon, the “Great Unconformity” or missing rock sequence is much older than the Grand Canyon. Here, 1.5 billion years of deposition has been eroded before the Chinle Formation was deposited 208 million years ago.

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We begin our descent into the canyon where walls rise to 1,200 feet above. Small riffles form as the walls close in. At Little Hole Canyon on the right, a hike presents itself through a variety of Great Basin Desert flora and fauna. After a mile and a half and at the base of the Wingate cliff a petroglyph panel of big horn ship can be found, as if navigating their way up through a weakness in the canyon wall. The artists were Ancestral Puebloans who left this area roughly 700 years ago.

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Another mile down the river and we get to my favorite camp, near the mouth of the Little Delores River. We are right above the back-to-back big rapids, and the sound of Little Delores Rapid can be heard. From here, it is possible to hike up the Little Delores River where a waterfall forms during spring run-off, or after a rainstorm. When it is dry, we hike up a steep trail to gain a view of the river below, and to see another panel of petroglyphs, these most likely from Ute Indians who came through much later than the Ancestral Puebloans.

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After the rapid at Little Delores there is a small cave on the left, with black soot coating the roof. Inside, two crude beds sag on top of rough-cut timber, and artifacts lie scattered around the stone floor. Some people say this outlaw hideout was refuge for counterfeiting brothers escaping the authorities in Grand Junction. Others claim this cave to be where Butch Cassidy laid low for the law to lose their trail. One thing is for certain. When Bert Loper and Ellsworth Kolb became the first to navigate this section of river by canoe in 1916, very few non-Native Americans had ventured into this rugged corridor.

On to the splashy waves of Marble Canyon Rapid, and rolling haystacks of Staircase Rapid. Next is Big Hummer, where a mound of water builds over boulders below the surface, and exits into a series of fun waves. Then comes Funnel Falls. At lower water levels Funnel feels like a waterfall, chuting through rocks below the horizon. At higher water, the Five-0 wave forms a big standing wave that feels like a roller coaster.

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Through Surprise Rapid and Son of Surprise Rapid- both always bigger than they appear from above- and we come to the most infamous rapid of the canyon, Skull Rapid. Here, there is a critical move to the left to make, as most of the water plows into the Rock of Shock and either goes downstream or into an eddy carved into the cliff wall called the Room of Doom. This is the crux of the canyon, a class IV rapid at higher water. Just a few rapids remain, but the ride will be wild.

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Rowing through Bowling Alley Rapid we approach Sock-it-to-me Rapid, my favorite. A few years ago I took my grandmother down the river, in her early 80’s. As we entered the rapid we accelerated, then stalled as the big curling wave stood the boat straight up in the air. Grandma emerged soaking wet and giggling, with a big smile on her face. She told me she hadn’t had that much fun in years!

On to Last Chance Rapid, we avoid the big domer in the center, and the river becomes peaceful again. The landscape begins to open, and the cliff swallows return to dart across the surface of the water, hunting for food. Not far is where the one and two day trip ends.

 

 

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On the three-day trip, we meander through ten miles of mild water and enter Post Card Alley. This is a great place to capture photographs in the early evening glow of the Fisher Towers in the Professor Valley. Onion Creek is the first choice for camp, with good hiking and great views in the fading light. We camp under big cottonwood trees and spend our evening on one of the biggest beaches of this stretch.

 

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The trip finishes with small splashy waves and incredible views as we pass Castle Valley and drop back into another canyon corridor. We have traveled just over 50 miles of river in three days, told stories, camped on the beach, and ran some really exciting whitewater. For those who haven’t experienced the awesome adventure of Westwater Canyon, don’t let another river season float by.

-Ben

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Last Minute Trip to Grand Canyon

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April 15-17 Grand Canyon trip still available!!

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In the ideal world everyone would have the time to participate in a Grand Canyon trip that covers every bend, rapid, and side canyon hike. Unfortunately this world is not ideal, and not everyone enjoys camping for 7,8, 13, or more days that is necessary to see the entire canyon. This is where the short trip often referred to as the “Grand Canyon Ranch and Raft” or “Grand Canyon Multi-Sport” comes in.

Easy Logistics?

Yes, all inclusive from Las Vegas.

Scenic Flight?

Yes, Las Vegas to the Bar 10 Ranch on the North Rim right over the lower portion of the Grand Canyon.

A day at a working ranch?

Yes, horseback riding, skeet shooting, and hiking are some of the activities available at the Bar 10 Ranch. The crew at the ranch puts on a great variety show for nightly entertainment, and accommodation options include a covered wagon.

Helicopter Ride?

Yes, right to the bottom of the Grand Canyon where our rafts will be patiently waiting.

What about the rafting?

Although it is true that the biggest rapids are upstream, this section still holds 6 or 7 formidable rapids, great views and some nice hiking opportunities. It is a really nice introduction to rafting the Grand Canyon. The one night camping is done on a sandbar along the Colorado River.

Anything Else?

After lunch the last day you will board a Jet Boat and speed off the upper sections of Lake Mead that have flooded the lower Grand Canyon. Motor Coach transportation is provided back to Las Vegas.

How Long is this trip?

Our rowing/paddle trips are 4 days long. The Motorized option can be completed in 3-days. For pricing and dates please visit http://www.crateinc.com/schedules-and-rates/.

Walk Through Time, in Blacktail Canyon

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I was in Blacktail Canyon, 120 miles below Lee’s Ferry in Grand Canyon when I first heard the “Walk Through Time”. I was on a river trip with legendary senior guide Matt Herman, as he put things into perspective for our guests. Blacktail Canyon is an extraordinary place to witness the depth of geologic time, along with the processes that create these most impressive canyons. Matt started at a big rock in the channel, not too far from the mouth, and started pacing out each step of Earth’s development from the beginning to now. The most impressing thing was walking through the rock layers of the Grand and ending with human existence as just a infinitesimal part of Earth’s journey. I told Walker Mackay about the “Walk Through Time”, and it reminded him of a book he read by William H. Calvin called “The River That Flows Uphill”. There, I found what sounded similar to what Matt had presented to us that day. Here is a summery;

Very few places exposed on Earth’s crust reveal the depth of the geologic record revealed in Grand Canyon. If you were to pace out Earth’s existence in its entirety (with each step representing 100 million years) it would take you 46 steps to bring us to today. It would take 6 steps to represent the time it took for the atmosphere to accumulate and 3 more steps for the surface to cool enough for the oldest rocks to form from the original crust. At 11 steps from our starting point, the very first cells develop. Over the next 5 steps, stromatolites emerge, and the foundation of the continents formed through lava flows. Now at 16 steps, the crust is able to support deposition of sedimentary and igneous flows and land mass grows while mountain building begins. Bacteria evolves to photosynthesize at 21 steps, and 3 steps later the Earth enters the first ice age. Two steps further the ice age ends and fungi shows up, and 2 steps again represents the accumulation of oxygen in the atmosphere and we reach an important place on our timeline.

Two thirds of the way into our journey and the schist which is seen in the walls of the Grand Canyon first forms. (This is the black rock at the bottom of Blacktail Canyon, and which through, at river level, we ran the Inner Gorge). In 5 more steps the supercell evolves and sedimentary layers of rock get bucked up to form the Appalachian Mountains. Boom! 36 steps in and our world gets rocked upside down. Sex is discovered and cells are able to replicate. Colonies of cells explode and life takes off. 3 steps to jellyfish. 1 more for the Cambrian Explosion. In a single step, vertebrates. (And this is where the Tapeats Sea bordered this area, and deposited the sands of this stone now above us, also called Tapeats.) Another step, land plants and spiders. Half a step for reptiles and a hiccup for the Permian Extinction. Then birds emerge and dinosaurs rule. At 45 steps in (while the leg is swinging into the final step), dinosaurs go extinct, mammals take over, apes evolve and ice ages oscillate. When that foot plants and comes to a stop, human existence would be represented by the portion of the toe nail you could clip off. Ancient civilizations. John Wesley Powell. The Bureau of Reclamation. Edward Abbey. Hayuke..

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Matt’s presentation was on point, and people were impressed. By this time on our trip, we had gone nearly half-way through the canyon. We had watched as the walls rose up, layer after layer and oscillated up and down as the river cut through. Seeing the rock go from several hundred million years old and jumping to almost 2 billion years old as it does in Blacktail makes it hard to put into perspective how this relates to our personal sense of time. The first few day of a river trip seem to go in slow motion. Then, something strange happens. The days just fly by and what happened yesterday seems to blend into what happened the day before. To fully grasp what one is feeling and experiencing on a river trip is really difficult to explain in words. To understand how our lives compare to the deep geological time represented here is nearly as difficult as understanding our place in the cosmos. Very few places but the Colorado River can provide this perspective. Beyond the rapids, the waterfalls and beaches, sometimes it is the intangible discoveries that make a river trip a life-changing event.

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Ten Tips to Pack Like a Pro for Your Next Desert River Expedition

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Choosing what to bring on a commercial river trip can be a daunting task. With all the variables to consider – weather, hiking, camp routine, hygiene, photography – it’s easy for your dry bag to become a back-breaking, black hole of, as Edward Abbey put it, “all that bloody gear!” If you’re planning a river trip in the desert this summer, here are ten tips to help simplify your stuff, streamline your dry bag and leave you with exactly what you’ll need.

 #1 Leave Half at Home

Keep in mind that you may have to schlep all your gear up a sandy dune or across a beach. You are going to have to dig through it to find what you need (which is inevitably at the bottom) and pack it all up everyday. Having less in the first place simplifies your routine and allows you more freedom to leisurely sip your morning coffee, quietly listen to the sound of a rapid or chat around the campfire at night.

Before ever leaving your house, lay out all you think you’ll need and cull it by half. This principal applies especially to clothing, but is useful for electronics, books, magazines and anything else you can live without while in the canyons. Fabrics that are lightweight, versatile and dry quickly should make the cut, providing you with a clean outfit every other day or so. Transfer toiletries into smaller bottles, pick just one book or make photocopies of articles you’d like to read.

And don’t worry; everyone else is going to be dirty, sweaty and smiling in their twice-worn t-shirts too!

#2 Know When to Splurge

It can be tough to decide what to buy new and what to make do with when packing for the wilderness. Outdoor gear is expensive and its hard to know what you will end up using the most once you’re on the trip. If you’re going to splurge on one new piece of gear for a desert river trip, think about investing in high quality, durable, comfortable water shoes or sandals. You will be wearing them all day everyday. If your footwear is good and comfortable, you won’t think twice about jumping on and off the boat and taking a short water hike. If they’re uncomfortable or low quality, your shoes might last a day or two before we inevitably have to dig out the duct tape and super glue to limp them through the rest of the trip. Nothing is more annoying than staggering along a trail with the partially-attached sole of your shoe flopping against the ground with each step, threatening to blow out all together at any second.

Check with your local outdoor store, read reviews and contact our office for recommendations about quality footwear.

#3 Plan for the Sun

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You will likely be in the sun from the time it rises until the time it sets each day. We recommend covering up us as much as possible in addition to wearing high SPF sunscreen. Even if you love the sun, never wear a hat or don’t own a pair of sunglasses in your regular life, bring the tools you’ll need to escape the sun on your river trip. We suspect there will be a time when you’ll use them. You will see your guides wearing long-sleeve shirts, wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, ample sunblock and using pants or a piece of fabric to cover their legs and feet. We even have a guide who wears socks on especially sunny days!

The desert sun is wonderfully warm and life giving at the same time it is unrelenting and intense. As much as you can, be prepared.

#4 Consider Items that Have Multiple Uses

Can your fleece jacket be used as a pillow? Can your towel double a sun protection? Can you share a piece of gear with your spouse? As mentioned earlier, you are going to be happier with less, so how about pants that zip into shorts, skirts that double as a dress, and, never to be underestimated, a light top-sheet/sarong/ piece of fabric that can be used for just about anything.

I’ve seen sarongs worn as clothing, used as a towel, sunshade, wind block, dressing room, picnic blanket, nap station, head cover, backpack and lightweight bedding on a hot desert night filled with stars.

#5 Remember Lotions and Potions

I can’t tell you how many people underestimate how dry the desert Southwest is. It is really dry! And you will be too. During the day, employ the benefits of a high SPF sunscreen as mentioned above. River guides don’t splurge on much but we get the good stuff when it comes to sunscreen. Anything less than SPF 30 is not going be much help to you. In addition, bring a small container of thick moisturizing cream or lotion for the inevitable drying out of lips, heels, chin – yes chin! – backs of hands and other exposed places. You’ll certainly notice the desert’s toll after a long day on the river and you’ll wish for some relief.

Sunscreen and plenty of water are your best friends to combat dryness during the day. Reparative cream and more water are your arsenal at camp.

#6 Be Prepared for Wet Weather

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There’s no need to bring your ski coat, but when culling your gear make sure a rain jacket and one warm layer make the final cut. Packing for the weather depends a lot on when you’ll be river tripping, but it’s always a good idea to have basic protection with you. After all, we are heading into wild country here! I have seen snow in Desolation Canyon in June, worn my raincoat against blowing sand in the Grand Canyon in July and been caught in many-a-drenching monsoon. The good news is that most of this crazy weather does not last long, but it does come up, so please bring the gear needed to combat it.

Even in July, a raincoat can be a much-appreciated splashguard for running early-morning rapids.

#7 Nothing Sacred

It is a good idea to leave your brand new smart phone – the one that holds all of your business contacts and photos of your children, that you’ve really been meaning to back up for months but haven’t quite gotten around to – at home or safely locked up at your hotel. We can tell you from experience that a lot can possibly happen to your expensive electronics and irreplaceables on a river tip: like sand, just to mention just one nuisance. Try not to wear your grandmother’s antique diamond stud earrings. It is a real downer to find one missing after a blissful afternoon of play in the Little Colorado River.

It happens, and it’s sad when it does.

#8 How Long is your Battery Life?

Almost universally we hear our guests lament the life of their camera batteries, saying they don’t last nearly as long as they’d expected, likely because they didn’t anticipate taking SO MANY photographs. This might be one area of packing where overestimation is slightly, and only slightly, encouraged. How much storage space do you have for photos? How many fresh batteries are you planning to bring?

There is no recharging once we’re off and floating, so make sure you plan accordingly. Batteries and memory cards are small and pack easily into the bottom of your dry bag. If you are a passionate shutterbug and would be devastated not to capture the canyons through your lens each day, bring ample power and storage to do so.

At the same time, don’t forget how relaxing it can be to put your camera down and solidify the memories of your trip the old fashioned way.

#9 Treat Yourself

Bring one set of clothing to keep clean-ish. Maybe you put your special clean shirt on at camp at night or just before you’re headed back to civilization at the end of the trip? If you’ve packed sparingly, a clean set of clothing feels like a real luxury. I wear my sweaty clothes all day and change into something cool and clean just before dinner each night. Some guides I know clean up just before they hop into their sleeping bag. Many of our guests reserve one t-shirt for the shuttle ride back to Las Vegas or Moab. It feels, good – really good – and is a simple treat you’ll want to give yourself at some point during your trip.

#10 Don’t Forget the Flare!

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River runners, guides and guests alike, are a jovial bunch. We’re not sure if it is our nature or a mild form of heatstroke, but we like to dress up and goof around. And, as always, all are welcome to join us. If that sounds like something you might be interested in, stash something small that denotes celebration or makes you feel good – a piece of flare – in your dry bag. When you waltz into the chair circle wearing a tuxedo t-shirt or a feather boa, the echoing sound of camp-wide applause will make you glad you did.

CRATE passengers receive an itemized packing list specific to their trip, with details about exactly what they’ll need to bring. Use our list, call our office and keep these ten tips in mind while gathering your gear, and you’re sure to get the most out of your desert river expedition!

We want to hear from you! In the comments below, tell us what gear you wish you’d had on your river trip? What didn’t you need? What tips do you have for those taking a trip in the future?

Long Term Environmental Monitoring Plan for Grand Canyon

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Public Meeting February 26th, Salt Lake City Utah
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Ever been on a river trip down the Grand Canyon and noticed “the tides” of the Colorado River nearly doubling, and then cut by almost half each day? The Long Term Environmental Monitoring Plan (LTEMP) is well underway and will open for public input in April-May of 2015. From February 25-27th, the Adaptive Management Work Group (AMWG) will meet to discuss the alternatives for the next flow regime. The meeting will be held at the Red Lion in downtown Salt Lake City, and is open to the public. Thursday the 26th will be dedicated to the LTEMP, from 9:00-3:00. Click here for the schedule. Read on to learn why it is important to attend.

Water is the lifeblood of the Grand Canyon. It is the Colorado River and its awesome downcutting power that has revealed 1.8 billion years of geologic record below and between the rims, and transported all that material out to sea. While the Colorado has been at work for the last 6 million years, all natural processes in the riparian zone of the canyon were altered in 1963 when the gates of Glen Canyon Dam were shut. In the blink of an eye –of geologic time- the flow of nutrients and sediment changed, and seasonal fluctuations of water were released each 24-hour period and stripped the canyon of beaches and habitat. A young scientist named David Wegner began to study the effects of the post dam ecosystem. It was his work that led to the Grand Canyon Protection Act of 1992 that stated that Glen Canyon Dam operation could not adversely affect downstream resources. An Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) was conducted, and in 1996 the Record of Decision (ROD) was signed that implemented the Modified Low Fluctuating Flow (MLFF), which continues to dictate canyon flows today.

While the MLFF was a huge improvement to protecting and improving the ecology of the river system, today’s fluctuating flows still swing water levels by up to 80% daily. High Flow Experiments (HFE) were implemented and effectively redistribute and rebuild beaches, but the daily fluctuations continue to erode the sand. After the last 3 HFE’s, I have witnessed the river swirl brown when fluctuations spike for peak power on June 1st, with new beaches washed downstream. Two steps forward, 1 ½ steps back.. Western Area Power Administration (WAPA) who distributes hydropower from Glen Canyon Dam ramps up in peak winter and summer months to meet the power demands of heating and cooling in the desert Southwest. Over the last 3 years, the flow regime has been reevaluated, and today we have an opportunity to improve the environment of Grand Canyon over the next 20 years.

Over $120 million has been spent on science down there so far, but the decision on how to release the water between stakeholders is still unclear. Out of 6 alternatives listed, the Hybrid alternative has emerged as a combination of alternatives supported by the National Park Service, Bureau of Reclamation, basin states and WAPA.

As a board member for Grand Canyon River Guides, I got the opportunity to sit down and meet with Lynn Jenka, an accountant for WAPA and the manager of the Colorado River Storage Project, and Shane Caprone, a Wildlife Biologist with WAPA. Here are some key points I learned in the meeting about the Hybrid alternative, water flows, sediment transportation, and WAPA’s internal workings:

  • The Hybrid alternative currently has 24 HFEs scheduled over a 20-year period to help rebuild and maintain beaches for camping and habitat for native fish. These yearly floods are conducted when there has been a heavy sediment input from the Paria River, usually at the end of the monsoon season. The HFEs are also good for the native plants in the riparian zone, as the water can wash out non-native species. The potential length of these floods has been expanded from 96 hours of high flow- to 250 hours- given that conditions are ripe for longer high flows to most effectively distribute the sand.
  • WAPA claims that the carbon cost of allowing water through the bypass tunnels during the HFE’s over the 20-year period will be 1.7 billion pounds of CO2 released into the atmosphere. This figure was calculated by a member of the Salt River Project and assumes that the water not moving through the turbines will necessitate the equal amount of power generated through coal burning power plants. This raised a lot of questions among board members at the meeting, who felt that this calculation didn’t account for opportunities to offset potential hydropower with renewable energies- and the decreasing costs of solar power production. It also doesn’t consider conservation, where power users could use less energy.
  • Within the Hybrid, fluctuations will continue to rise and fall by 8,000 cfs. But Shane Caprone explained to us that it isn’t the fluctuations that are eroding the beaches, it is the total monthly volume of water released that is devastating to the beaches. While flows below 12,000 c.f.s are found to have minimal erosional capabilities, flows above 12,000 erode sand at an exponential rate, to the 3rd The Hybrid as currently discussed, evens out the monthly spikes of water flow throughout the year. This plan will retain 70 metric tons of sediment more than the existing MLFF.                               Discussion/ questions for the upcoming meeting:
  • HFEs are crucial to rebuild beaches and maintain habitat in Grand Canyon. Will the biased/skewed statistic relating to carbon emissions lead to less HFEs? Turbines could be built in the bypass tunnels for a cost between $20-30 million. How long would it take to pay off this cost?
  • Do we really need to continue fluctuating flows by up to 80%? In our meeting, WAPA representatives told us that the price paid for power generated by Glen Canyon Dam is the same for peak and off-peak production. How much more sediment could we retain if fluctuations were maxed at 4,000 c.f.s? Foreshadowing a last-minute move to increase fluctuations even more, Shane told us that fluctuation swings of 10,000 or 12,000 wouldn’t erode much more sand. What are the ecological impacts of fluctuating the Colorado by 120%? Certainly it would have negative impacts on river trips, with boats getting beached at camp, and lower flows at the bottom end of fluctuations to navigate the river.

So what can we do to ensure the right decision is made? Come to the meeting at the Red Lion, Thursday February 26th starting at 8:00 AM. Make a public comment by emailing Glen Knowles at least 5 days before the meeting at gknowles@usbr.gov, and state that HFEs should be priority, and fluctuations should be kept to a minimum. Sign up for email notifications for when the draft EIS opens for public input in April/May. Power production was only a secondary thought after Glen Canyon Dam was built. There is only one Grand Canyon. We need to do what we can to protect the natural wonders of the world.

-Ben

Colorado River Dory and Music Trip–July 5-16, 2015

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Colorado River & Trail Expeditions will be running a Dory and Music trip July 5-16, 2015 through Utah’s Canyonlands.  The trip will start at Loma, Colorado near the Utah/Colorado stateline.  The trip will follow the Colorado River through Ruby, Horsethief, Westwater, and Cataract Canyons before ending at the headwaters of Lake Powell.  The trip will be hosted by boat builder and musician Andy Hutchinson; and famous historian, author, and boat builder Brad Dimock.  This should be the perfect trip for those who have always wanted to experience the Colorado River above the Grand Canyon in the sleek style and feel of a Dory.  In addition to the rapids and river scenery, the schedule should allow for plenty of time for off-river hiking and exploration.  Camp time will be filled with stories, history, music, and campfires.  The trip is priced at $2995.00/person with round trip transportation provided from Green River, UT.  Below is a rough itinerary for the trip.  As of today there are 8 spaces available.

A Land of Rock

A Land of Rock

Day 1:

We will get an early start and drive from Green River, Utah to Loma, Colorado where we will be fitted with life jackets, given a safety orientation, and introduced to the guides. Shortly after we will push off on the mighty Colorado River.  Right away we will be in Horsethief Canyon.  Camp will be set up at Mee Corner.

Day 2:

We will leave Horsethief Canyon and then enter Ruby Canyon.  Camp will be set-up in the Black Rocks section.

Day 3:

Around lunchtime we will say our goodbyes to our Adventure Bound guide and support raft.  The first few miles after lunch will be spent floating through big cottonwood groves and sandstone outcroppings teaming with an array of birds including Bald Eagles.  Then suddenly the Wingate sandstone walls become high and the black rock of the metamorphic complex starts to reach its fingers out of the river.  Westwater Canyon is one of the most beautiful sections of the Colorado River.  After a short hike to the abandoned Miner’s Cabin, and running a few small rapids, camp will be set up near the Little Dolores River.

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Scouting the Big Drops

Day 4:

Today will be one of the most exciting whitewater days of the river trip.  The fun and exciting class III-IV rapids of Westwater Canyon will come one after another.  Some of the bigger rapids include: Funnel Falls, Skull Rapid, and Sock-It-To-Me.  After the river exits Westwater Canyon it will mellow out again and the river banks once again will be filled with large cottonwood groves and sandstone outcroppings.  Camp will be set up near Fish Ford and we will hopefully do a nice hike to a big view.

Day 5:

Today brings us into the upper section of the Moab Daily and past the Cutler Sandstone Fisher Towers.  Views of sandstone spires, pinnacles, and buttes will be framed by the laccolithic La Sal mountains from our camp along the rapids of Onion Creek.

Day 6:

After a nice early start, we will maneuver our way through the last few rapids of the Moab Daily section of the Colorado River.  Sometime before lunchtime a motorized raft will meet up with us and motor us through 30 miles of flat water.  Garbage and recycling will be exchanged for new food and drink.  We will float past the Salt Valley known as Moab, through the Portal, and into Canyonlands National Park.

Dory in Rapids

Dory in Rapids

Day 7:

In the morning we will take a short hike amongst the ruins and pictographs of the Ancestral Puebloan site at Lathrop Canyon.  Then we will get back on the boats and float toward Indian Creek.  Indian Creek offers more opportunities for hiking and ruins as well as a nice camping opportunity.

Day 8:

The river makes a large gooseneck, and at the narrowest part, a short steep hike affords some spectacular views and the opportunity to meet the boats on the other side. Along the hike are ancient petroglyphs.  In the afternoon the Colorado River will meet the Green River.  The confluence of these two rivers is often referred to as the “Center of the Universe” amongst rafters.

Day 9:

A Layover Day!!  Relax and Read, or Hike up to the Dolls House of the Maze District of Canyonlands National Park.  Pack a lunch.  Great Geology!  Great Views!  Great Hike!

Dories lined up at camp

Dories lined up at camp

Day 10:

Rapids! Today we will run the first 20 rapids of Cataract Canyon.  The rapids will start small and gradually increase in size.  Camp will be set up at the top of the famous Big Drop Rapids.

Day 11:

The Biggest Rapids of the Trip!  Today we will run the series of rapids known as the Big Drops.  The Big Drops in Cataract Canyon are always very technical and at high water are the biggest rapids in North America.  In July they should be a little more tame, but still very exciting.  After the Big Drops, we will see the effects of a 15-year prolonged drought, as some rapids that have been buried under the water of Lake Powell for the last 30 years have re-emerged recently.  These include a long rocky rapid at the head of Waterhole Canyon.  In the afternoon we may have time to hike into Dark Canyon.

Day 12:

After an early start, we will reflect on our incredible journey over the past 12 days.  The trip will end at North Wash and transportation will be provided back to Green River.

Brad Dimock author of "Sunk WIth Out a Sound" and "The Doing of the Thing"

Brad Dimock author of “Sunk With Out a Sound” and “The Doing of the Thing”

Lineage of Grand Canyon Boatman

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It is easy to see why working for Colorado River and Trail Expeditions is an ideal place to work. We are a family, where past and present crew members are all a part of that legacy. As current guides, we hear stories about the first generation boatman, the second generation and the third. We know these guides like brothers and sisters even if we have never met them in person. Most of our guides are related to someone who worked for CRATE in the early years, Mother, Uncle, Cousin, or fell into the family through close family friendship. What Dave and Vicki Mackay have created is a lineage of people connected through their love and passion of the rivers we run.

To lay out the family tree of each boatman would be an entire book in itself. Here I would like to highlight two different 3 generation boating families, the Quayles and the Reeders.

Amil Quayle started working for Western River Expeditions in the 1960’s and soon found himself working side by side with Dave Mackay. My Grandpa Grant Reeder signed up as a passenger on some of these early Western trips with Jack Curry, Amil and Dave, and soon became a regular. After a few trips, Grant accepted the opportunity to row the second set of oars on the 33 foot-long double-oar rigs. The video link above is a 8mm film of two different river trips, 1965 and 1966 in Grand Canyon, trips that included Dave, Amil and Grant. It was in Lava Falls on one of these trips that another boatman flipped. A passenger on the flipped boat was dealt a bleeding head laceration and the trip stopped at Tequila Beach to figure out what to do. More than 40 years later, on a Desolation Canyon river trip, Amil recalls that day. He said that as a Doctor, Grant decided that stitching up the man’s head was the best solution. “I was so mad!” recalls Amil. “It should never take 3 hours to give someone stitches! We still had miles to make that day”. I laughed when hearing this story. Grant was an Anesthesiologist, and probably didn’t have much practice at stitching someone up. I could just picture him, being overly paranoid while trying to keep the wound sterile in that environment.

In the early 70’s Dave and Amil split off to start their own companies, Colorado River and Trail Expeditions and Quayle Expeditions, respectively. Amil’s sons Bruce and Manx fell in love with the river and started guiding when they were old enough. Grant’s sons Stuart and Mark guided for Dave’s company. While Quayle Expeditions lasted only a few seasons before Amil chose to go work the land, farming in Nebraska, his sons where drawn to spend as much time in the canyons as possible. Bruce Quayle and Stuart Reeder have continued to run trips all these years.

Manx told me about a trip he was on with my uncle Mark. It was 1983 and nobody had seen that much water running down the Canyon since Glen Canyon dam was completed in 1963. Manx said that it was Mark’s first trip with clients on his boat and Lava was cranking. “Mark had a wild ride, down the left side”, he said. “But he managed to get through staying upright”.

My uncles Bruce and Russell had short stints on the river. Russell met Holly- who was Vicki’s niece- on a Grand Canyon river trip. At 17 years old, the two fell instantly in love and got married. My cousin Zak was soon born to the young husband and wife, and began guiding for CRATE while still a teenager. Zak became a senior guide in the ‘90’s and early 2000’s, dedicating 17 years to Colorado River and Trail. At the end of the 2007 river season it was Zak who convinced me to leave my job guiding in Moab to join the CRATE family.

In 2008 Manx’s daughter Kyndl Quayle started guiding for Colorado River and Trail Expeditions. Same year as me. She had been down the river before, and found a natural knack for reading water, rowing boats, and motoring S-rigs. Don’t know where she got it…but she continues the legacy, building her own stories to tell. Leading trips, rowing, paddling and motoring she has been a key part of the CRATE crew.

One of my favorite parts of taking people down the river is telling stories about the ancestors. Because nobody has a knack for words as Amil does, I like to read from his book of poetry, Grand Canyon and Other Selected Poems. People love to hear his poems about Shorty Burton, Tater- the Invincible Dachshund, and about Shawn from poetry class. When I read the poem Grand Canyon, many people tell me that Amil puts to words what they feel in the Canyon, but cannot describe. I love to tell people about a trip my dad, uncle Stuart and Grandpa did in 1969. They were at Lee’s Ferry on the 4th of July and Grant threw a string of firecrackers into the fire to celebrate. They where quickly reprimanded by park rangers, who informed them that launching the next day was Secretary of Interior Stuart Udall and Superintendents of the major National Parks to celebrate John Wesley Powell in a century memorial trip. Grant felt bad and apologized to a park ranger on the water a few days later. The ranger just laughed, and said, “I didn’t care, I thought it was funnier than hell!” Turned out to be Edward Abbey, who came from Arches to join the trip.

I feel very lucky to be a part of this crew, this family. Together our own stories grow. And even though the facts become blurred from one season to the next, the stories season, and get better and better. If you haven’t joined us to share your story around the chair circle at night, there’s no time like the 2015 season.

The best part is that anyone who has been down the river with us- is part of that family. Especially those Friends of CRATE who have been down on multiple trips with us. What a pleasure it is to see old friends and return to the conversations we left from the last time we went downstream together. For those who are not part of the family yet, you have an open invitation.

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Congratulations to our Photography Contest Winners

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With gratitude to all the friends and guests who entered, we are proud to announce that Anton Foltin of Phoenix, AZ is the grand prize winner of the second annual Colorado River and Trail Expeditions photo contest! In addition, Libeth Saenger of Aachen, Germany swept all three people’s choice categories.

Anton’s winning image of Havasu Creek was taken during our 10-day photography workshop trip in the Grand Canyon in May of last year. Libeth captured her popular shots in August on our 12-day Alsek River expedition in Canada and Alaska. For their efforts, Anton will receive a complimentary 8-day Grand Canyon river trip this summer and Libeth will have her choice of our Utah trips. Cheers to our winners and their keen eye for photography!

Havasu Creek, 2015 Photo Contest Winner

Anton Foltin‘s 2015 grand prize-winning photograph. Late afternoon light plays on the blue water of Havasu Creek. Grand Canyon NP, AZ.

Next year, the winner could be YOU!

CRATE’s photo contest begins with our rafting seasons each April and is ongoing throughout the summer. Participants on our trips are encouraged to upload a total of ten of their favorite images to share at www.crateinc.com, and can specify six to be entered into our contest. We offer three categories in which our guests can showcase their talents – “Scenery”, “Guides and Guests”, and “The River” – as well as two ways to win.

The people’s choice winners are the most popular photos in each category. We track the ones that are shared the most and receive the greatest number of “likes” on social media. This year Libeth swept all three categories, but we have room for three photos and three winners here.

 Libeth Saenger’s winning photo in the “scenery” category. Sweeping vista of Lowell Glacier and Lowell Lake, with peaks of the Wrangell-St. Elias Range beyond, taken from the top of Goatherd Mountain. Alsek River, Yukon Territory, Canada.

Libeth Saenger’s winning photo in the “scenery” category. Sweeping vista of Lowell Glacier and Lowell Lake, with peaks of the Wrangell-St. Elias Range beyond, taken from the top of Goatherd Mountain. Alsek River, Yukon Territory, Canada.

The grand prize image is chosen from the total pool of entries by an expert in the realms of river running and photography. This year’s judge was landscape photographer Tom Till, who – in the name of full disclosure – is also my dad. As a professional photographer, he has spent the last 40 years photographing around the world but concentrating on the Southwestern US. During that time he has logged many hours on the river, both as a boatman and a photographer. His gallery in downtown Moab, UT and his website, http://www.tomtill.com, showcase his iconic images of the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon and Canyonlands, as well as images from around the globe. I can say, with only a hint of bias, that he really knows his stuff.

When asked why he chose Anton’s image, Tom said,

“Picking this photo was a tough decision. There were five or six in my final running and any of them could have won. I chose Anton’s for the emotional response it evokes. Many of the photos were very technically sound, so I tend to go with photos that are something I haven’t seen before or take new twist on the landscape. Also, very few pictures capture the true color of the water in Havasu as closely as this one does. The composition is nicely balanced, with a beautiful waterfall and the afternoon reflective light on the walls and in the creek. It’s very close to how I know Havasu to look in reality.”

We are currently finalizing the entry process and prizes for our 2015 photo contest so look for more information here, as well as on our website, about how you can participate this summer.

We want to see the canyon through the diverse and talented eyes of our guests, and share the images of the places we love with fellow river runners. Any and all photos that showcase the beauty, excitement, camaraderie, serenity and awe of a river trip are welcome. The more participants and images the better!

To see the remainder of Libeth’s winning photos along with the rest of the incredible entries we received in 2014, visit www.crateinc.com and click on the “photos” tab at the top of the page.

Bring on the Snow

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I’m learning to ski this winter, and it is a lot harder than I thought it was going to be. It seems like my legs are always on fire as I struggle to hook the edges of my skis into the side of the mountain. They’re on fire when I’m standing in my boots in the parking lot. They’re on fire the next morning when I limp out of bed. Everything about learning to ski is awkward. Just when I think I’ve got it, I wobble and end up spinning like a starfish on my belly. I feel one confident turn for every ten I take. It’s annoying, exciting and humbling to learn something so foreign as an adult.

But learning to ski has given this desert girl a gift I have never fully realized before. Learning to ski in the Wasatch Mountains this season has opened my mind and my heart to of the beauty and wonder of snow. As a river guide, I’ve always known conceptually that snow feeds everything else I love to do, but this winter I’m turning that concept into a connection that I appreciate more than ever.

I have been lucky enough to experience precisely two “powder days” this winter, where the expanses of bottomless new-fallen snow look almost too pristine to play in. But I am beginning to understand how nothing could keep me out of them either – not fog, not cold, not work. I am able to understand an obsession I have only observed until now. I haven’t fully cultivated my personal relationship with the snow just yet, but I know that my love lies partly in standing at the top of a sparkling slope, high above the populace in the valley. It has to do with feeling a cold breeze brush my face at the same time my warm, worked heart is beating beneath all my layers. And yes, it has to do with the one good turn in ten, which is shockingly but certainly worth the effort of all the others.

Still, I think my obsession is shaping up to be a little different from that of the die-hard powder seekers. My bond with the snow is less about adrenaline and more about appreciation. It’s about perspective. Never has it been so clear that this precious powder is the direct lifeline for the other obsessions in my life: deserts and the rivers that course through them.

The headwaters of the Colorado River lie in Northeastern Colorado in the Rocky Mountains where the entire river is a stream running through a meadow. I’ve hopped across it. The Green River’s water comes from the remote Wind River Mountains in Wyoming. I’m aware that not much of the water in either hail from the Wasatch Range where I’ve been skiing, but I feel the connection nonetheless.

When I’m falling and flailing through deep powder I know that this moisture is infinitely precious to my way of life and the places I love. With any luck the white stuff I’ve been wallowing in on skis will continue to accumulate this winter and then slowly begin to melt come spring. Then I’ll get to experience it all over again it runs from the high country to the lowlands, through my favorite rapids and past my dearest hiking spots. I’ll get to sleep on a raft gently tugged by the current as the melt rushes by, and wake up each morning to the sound of the river bouncing off the banks.

As of yesterday the National Water and Climate Center’s snow reporting sites for the Colorado River Basin above Lake Powell were reporting snowpack at 87% of average. The Green River Basin was reporting 100% of average. That may sound pretty good, but compare those numbers to the snowpack in 2011, the most recent high water year for the Green and Colorado Rivers. At this time in 2011 the Green River basin was reporting 137% of average snowfall and the Colorado basin was at 149%. Considering how low lakes Powell and Mead have become over the last decade, we can always use more of the magic white stuff.

Luckily, we still have time left in this winter – time for snow to fall and for me to fall into it. Many of the things I do and the places I love hinge on how much snow is gifted to our highlands each winter. As it continues to fall, at least here in Utah, I am thankful today but always wishing for more.

Flowers of the Canyon Country

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As the winter months bring snow and rain to the Canyon Country, the red desert sand becomes moist and fertile for the plants that find home here. With the warming spring temperatures, the landscape opens, bursting with colors to attract pollinators in hopes for reproduction. While some plants bloom consistently from year to year, others lay dormant waiting for abnormally wet seasons. Other opportunistic species bloom throughout the season, on a larger-than-seasonal cycle. Often times a strong monsoon season will find conditions prime for a fall bloom more spectacular than the spring. For those traveling downstream on a river trip, the following flowers might be spotted while drifting by on the boat or while hiking in side canyons.

Prince’s Plume

Stanleya pinnata MUSTARD FAMILY

Reaching heights of 4 feet tall, this yellow flowering plant blooms from the base up. Prince’s Plume thrives in soil rich in selenium, which gets transported by pollinating insects and can accumulate to toxic levels higher in the food chain. The Native Americans would mash up the roots to treat aches and pains.

IMG_2757One of my favorite places to see Prince’s Plume bloom is in Cataract Canyon camping at Little Bridge Canyon on high water trips. There, the top heavy blooms nod in the evening breeze on cool May nights.

Crimson Monkeyflower

Mimulus cardinalis SNAPDRAGON FAMILY

Usually found in shady side canyons next to springs or streams, the Monkeyflower blooms throughout the summer months. In Grand Canyon there are 7 different species closely related and nearly impossible to differentiate without the blooming flower.

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Some of the most spectacular places to see Crimson Monkeyflowers are found hiking to waterfalls in Grand Canyon. Hiking up Saddle Canyon and back to the narrowing V of the canyon, Monkeyflowers can be seen growing thick along the water’s edge. Thunder River falls is another place Monkeyflowers thrive, where the mist of the cascading water creates a moist environment even under the direct desert sun.

Golden Columbine

Aquilegia chrysantha BUTTERCUP FAMILY

Often found growing next to Crimson Monkeyflowers, Columbine grow in less dense populations in shady canyons next to water. Like Monkeyflowers, there are 7 similar species in Grand Canyon blooming with a variety of colors. Because the nectar is stored deep inside of the flower, its main pollinators are butterflies with long proboscises and hummingbirds. Bees with short proboscises will often bite through the flower to get to the nectar and avoid the task of pollination.

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Rounding the bend to the falls in Saddle Canyon, in the narrowest spot between canyon walls is where you can see 3 different species of Columbine bloom. In red, pink and yellow, the backward facing spurs stand tall to the sky, hoping for butterflies not bees.

Century Plant

Agave utahensis AGAVE FAMILY

Once thought to grow for a hundred years before blooming, botanists now know that the Century Plant blooms after 20-40 years before dying. Stems extending underground called rhizomes can clone the next generation next to the mother plant. The flowering stock can shoot up 15 feet into the sky, the climax after a long life in the desert.

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While hiking to the top of the Redwall layer of limestone through the Eminence Fault break from the eminence camp, Century Plants appear as candlesticks in the fading afternoon light. One Grand Canyon river trip participant informed me that the post-flowering stalk of the Century Plant makes a good walking stick because it is light in weight, rigid and strong.

Globemallow

Sphaeralcea grossulariifolia MALLOW FAMILY

Thriving after rainy seasons, Globemallow can be seen blooming both in spring and fall on talus slopes along the river. Seen in shades of reds and oranges, 10 different species of Globemallow can be seen in Grand Canyon. Because hybridization is common, differentiating between species can be difficult. Native Americans harvest the roots and make a sticky pulp in cold water to treat stomach pain and diarrhea. Globemallow can also be made into a tea that finds soothing effects.

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Driving to the put-in for Desolation Canyon in the spring feels like driving through an ocean of orange Globemallow blooms. Often opportunistic, Globemallow thrive within disturbed landscapes, lining the highways dissecting the desert Southwest. Hiking to the Doll’s House on a Cataract Canyon is a spectacular site to see globemallows bloom among other wildflowers.

Sacred Datura

Datura wrightii NIGHTSHADE FAMILY

Also called Moonflower, Sacred Datura blooms at night and tends to whither in direct sunlight. Because of heavy concentrations of toxic alkaloids found in the leaves, contact with the plant can cause fatal hallucinations. Hawk moths are the Datura’s main pollinator, and form a symbiotic relationship. Because of their extended proboscis, the Hawk moth can extract pollen from deep inside the flower. Hawk moth larvae feed on the alkaloid-rich leaves making them toxic to predators.

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One of my favorite places to see Sacred Datura is hiking through the winding narrows of 75 mile canyon above Nevills Rapid. The tall, vertical walls of Shinamu Quartzite provide enough shade to protect the flower from shriveling up throughout the day. Looking at the shapes formed by the Datura Flower, its impossible not to think about the artwork of Georgia O’Keeffe.

-Ben

Who can identify the following desert wildflowers? Feel free to post your answers in the comment section below.

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Source:

River and Desert Plants of the Grand Canyon. Kristin Huisinga, Lori Makarick, Kate Watters. Mountain Press Publishing Company, 2006.

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