A Colorado River Guide: Dirty Devil to Bullfrog

River Mile 169.5 — Dirty Devil River (River Right)

The Dirty Devil River joins the Colorado River at River Mile 169.5. John Wesley Powell camped at this confluence on July 28, 1869, describing the tributary as extremely muddy and foul-smelling. Jack Sumner later named it the Dirty Devil.

The Dirty Devil is formed by the confluence of Muddy Creek and the Fremont River near present-day Hanksville, Utah. The Fremont River originates at Fish Lake and flows along the Waterpocket Fold through Capitol Reef National Park. Muddy Creek drains the San Rafael Swell.

Historic Context — Powell’s Expeditions:

Powell’s 1869 expedition recorded the Dirty Devil as both a geographic reference and a warning. In his later expeditions of 1871–72, Powell returned with improved boats and a scientific mandate. Tributaries such as the Dirty Devil became fixed reference points for mapping and geologic observation. Powell’s journals note the heavy silt load and poor water quality here, and his party avoided using the Dirty Devil as a water source when possible.

River Mile 168.5 (approx.) — North Wash Boat Ramp (River Right)

Shortly downstream of the Dirty Devil confluence is the North Wash boat ramp. The ramp was bulldozed down to the Colorado River sometime in the early to mid-2000s. Around 2005, it became our preferred take-out for Cataract Canyon rafting trips after Lake Powell dropped so low that Hite Marina was no longer usable.



A bulldozer was used to create several rough access points to remove rafts from the river. Over time, the ramp has deteriorated significantly. As of 2025, it is effectively unusable. Taking rafts out here is dangerous and requires extensive rigging, including ropes, pulleys, roller tubes, and winches. There are plans to make the ramp more usable in 2026 until a permanent solution is put in place. But, from past experience, it is best to check ramp conditions before starting a Cataract Canyon river trip.

River Mile 168.0 (approx.) — North Wash (Mouth) (River Right)

Before Lake Powell backed up the Colorado River, North Wash was the primary access route to Upper Glen Canyon and the river below Cataract Canyon. Early river expeditions launching into Glen Canyon used this route to put in their boats. It was also the access road to the town of Hite, located on river right across from White Canyon and the ferry at Dandy Crossing.

John Wesley Powell repaired his boat Canonita at the mouth of North Wash in 1872. Robert Brewster Stanton established a survey camp here during his late-19th-century railroad reconnaissance. In 1916, legendary river runner Bert Loper lived in a tent at the mouth of North Wash with his new bride, Rachel Jamison.

Historic Context — Glen Canyon as a Working Reach:

For Powell, Stanton, and later river runners, Glen Canyon below Cataract Canyon functioned as a working stretch of river. Boats were repaired, equipment reorganized, and side canyons explored. Compared to Cataract Canyon, this reach offered calmer water, abundant beaches, and shade.

River Mile 167.8 (approx.) — Hite Marina (River Left)

Hite Marina is located across the river from where North Wash enters the Colorado River. Prior to using the North Wash ramp, all of our trips took out at Hite Marina.

During periods of full Lake Powell—particularly in the 1980s through the mid-1990s—we used a Gregor pontoon boat to meet trips on the lake and transport guests. Customers would ride on bench seating as we motored them off the waters of Lake Powell.

As lake levels dropped, we switched to a small Boston Whaler with a 30-horsepower engine to meet oar-powered trips and push them across the lake to Hite. Hite was a busy place, full of people, boats, and activity. Take-outs were easy, with plenty of space and clear water. On the way out, we often stopped at the Hite Marina store for ice cream. They sold t-shirts that read, “I am at the Hite of my life.”

River Mile 163.0 — Fort Moqui (River Right)

On the right bank between North Wash and the town of Hite stood Fort Moqui. One of the structures measured approximately 12 by 20 feet. In 1871, John Stuart described the site:

“The walls of the ruins, five houses in number, stand a few feet high in many places. There are no evidences of doors; the kiva is between the main building and an ell, its roof having fallen in.”

Archaeology Note:

Numerous ancestral Puebloan structures once lined portions of Glen Canyon, including this reach. Many sites were never fully documented prior to inundation. Descriptions here acknowledge recorded observations only.

River Mile 162.0 — Townsite of Hite and Dandy Crossing (River Right)

Located on river right approximately five miles below Hite Marina, the town of Hite was established after a passable road was built from Hanksville down North Wash in 1946.

The Dandy Crossing Ferry operated from 1946 to 1964, with its inaugural crossing on September 17, 1946. The road continued south up White Canyon toward Blanding. A 1950 Shell Oil map clearly shows this route with the warning, “Make Local Inquiry Before Traveling.”

Cass Hite arrived in the area in 1883 after Navajo Chief Hoskininni told him of gold deposits. The report was true, and a gold rush followed in Glen Canyon. Relatives joined Hite in mining and in operating the ferry. The town persisted until July 1964, when it was submerged by Lake Powell.

Historic Context — Transportation Corridor:

For decades, this was one of the few Colorado River crossings between Moab and Lees Ferry.

River Mile 153.5 — Castle Butte (River Right)

Castle Butte rises on the right side of the river approximately ten miles below Hite. Its elevation is 4,527 feet.

River Runner Note:

Prominent landmarks like Castle Butte were essential navigation references before modern river maps.

River Mile 153.0 (approx.) — Red Canyon (River Left)

Red Canyon enters from river left. This canyon was home to Bert Loper’s cabin, known as the Hermitage. It was regularly visited by river parties until inundation. Edward Abbey wrote:



“No man, or woman either, ever loved the river more than Bert Loper.”

Historic Context — Early Private River Runners:

From the 1930s through the 1950s, Glen Canyon drew private river runners—teachers, photographers, writers—who traveled slowly and emphasized exploration over speed.

River Mile 150.0 (approx.) — Ticaboo Canyon (River Right)

Cass Hite built a home up Ticaboo Canyon and lived there until his death in 1914. He realized it was easier to make money supplying miners than mining gold and supported Robert Brewster Stanton’s Hoskininni venture, which ultimately failed.

Before inundation, the canyon mouth contained petroglyph panels and sandy camps.

Archaeology Note:

Petroglyph panels here were documented prior to flooding and are included for historical acknowledgment only.

River Mile 136.0 (approx.) — Tapestry Wall

In 1948, Charles Larabee wrote:

“We rested in grandeur in the shadow of Tapestry Wall rising an unbroken 1,200 feet above the river…”

River Runner Note:

Tapestry Wall was a frequent rest and observation stop due to shade and scale.

River Mile 134.5 (approx.) — Hanson / Hansen Creek (River Left)

Hanson Creek enters from river left. Historic sources variably spell the name Hanson, Hansen, or Henson. All refer to the same drainage.

Provable River Runner Story:

Mid-century river trip photographs and notes document a 1952 river party camping on Smith Bar near the mouth of this creek, described as their “first night” camp. The area appears repeatedly in archived river photography from the early recreational era, indicating its reliability as a camp and stopping point.

River Mile 132.0 (approx.) — Beaver Canyon (River Right)

Beaver Canyon enters from river right. The canyon is steep and narrow, with limited beach development. Early river accounts note brief exploration but no established long-term camps.

River Mile 131.0 (approx.) — Forgotten Canyon (River Left)

Forgotten Canyon is one of Glen Canyon’s most historically significant side canyons.

Provable Historic Site — Defiance House:

Forgotten Canyon is home to Defiance House, an ancestral Puebloan cliff dwelling photographed, described, and widely visited by river runners prior to inundation. The site appears in mid-20th-century river literature and archaeological summaries and was a primary reason many river parties scheduled layover days here.

River runner notes from the 1940s–1950s describe Forgotten Canyon as a place of extended exploration rather than quick stops.

When exposed during low reservoir years, Forgotten Canyon provides one of the clearest surviving views of pre-dam Glen Canyon.

River Mile 127.0 (approx.) — Smith Fork (River Right)

Smith Fork enters from river right as a long, branching drainage.

River Runner Note:

While less famous than Forgotten Canyon, Smith Fork has long been valued for solitude. Both historic and modern trip accounts describe unexpectedly lush lower sections when water is present, reinforcing its reputation as a quiet exploration canyon.

River Mile 124.5 (approx.) — Knowles Canyon (River Left)

Knowles Canyon enters from river left. It was less frequently explored but contributed significant sediment during flood events.

Historic Survey Context:

Pre-dam archaeological surveys documented a high density of cultural sites throughout this lower Glen Canyon reach, including areas near Knowles Canyon. Many were never fully recorded before inundation.

River Mile 121.0 (approx.) — Bullfrog Creek (River Right)

Bullfrog Creek marks the approach to the Bullfrog area.

River Runner Note:

Even before Glen Canyon Dam, river runners recognized this reach as a transition zone where current diminished and flatwater increased.

River Mile 120.0 (approx.) — Bullfrog Marina (River Right)

Bullfrog Marina was developed in the 1960s as Lake Powell rose. Today it marks the functional end of the free-flowing Colorado River for Cataract Canyon trips.

Before inundation, this reach featured broad bends, sandy beaches, and towering Navajo Sandstone walls.

Historic Context — The Transition:

Pre-dam river runners described Bullfrog as the place where the river began to “lose its voice.” Canyon walls widened, current slowed, and long flatwater days became common. After Glen Canyon Dam, that gradual transition became absolute.